Fort Smith, Arkansas National Historic Site

We arrive early,to the Fort Smith Historic site, on a very warm June morning. Already temperatures are around the 70 degree mark. The grounds consist of some thirty odd acres, so we decide to take in the outdoor sights before heading to the Visitor's Center inside the old Courthouse building
Following one of several paths, we head for the site of the first Fort Smith. As we cross a set of railroad tracks, we spot a marker showing on a hill directly in front of us, is the cubic stone marker of the Choctaw National boundary line surveyed "as specified in the 1829 treaty." The old original mark is on display inside the Visitor's Center.
The path begins to climb a steep hill and a view of the Arkansas River comes into sight. All around us are beautiful mown grounds, with numerous shade trees and benches to rest your aching feet. At the very top of this hill, I look to my right, seeing old Fort Smith's foundation remains. This point gives a bird's eye view across the river and into once hostile and dangerous Indian Territory.

From here we make our way back the same way, we came. Only this time, we swing to the right and white gallows peeking over the white wooden fence surrounding it. Although the gallow standing today are replicas, they sit on the exact spot of the original. A sobering place where so many paid the price for their crimes.
On leaving these gallows, the path leads around the courthouse on the western side. We pass, locations of officers housing and soon reach a two-story rock building standing alone in the parks north-west corner. Here is the oldest building still standing at the Fort Smith Historic Site. As commissary, it was built in 1838, changing a great deal over the years and serving as office as one point for Judge Issac C. Parker.

I am walking to take a picture of the old Frisco train station, sitting right next to the commissary building, when Voyt starts motioning me to him. By now he is already way ahead of me and investigating an old trolley parked near Garrison Avenue.
On approaching this trolley, I notice its tracks leading around a corner and heading directly along the Fort Smith Historic site boundary. A nice older gentleman, steps out of this trolley, smiling at our arrival. He takes our two bucks apiece for the tour, and within moments we start to move with a sudden jolt. The squeaking and grinding makes it difficult to be heard, so our conductor stops the electric powered engine of the 1926 trolley, periodically to point out some interesting aspect of his rail line.
Our ride ends near the National Cemetery. I'm looking for a turnstile so we can make the return trip, but see none. Voyt is obviously curious as well because he asks, "Can you drive this from both ends?" The conductor grins and removes the controls right off the panels and moves to the other end, directing us to follow, so we will now be facing the opposite direction. To soon the ride ends, and we must make our way back to the old Courthouse and Visitor's Center. Don't pass this trolley ride up, if you visit the site. It's well worth the $2.00 for adults and $1.00 for children.

Back inside the Old Fort Smith Courthouse, a small gift shop lays to the right. Past the ranger desk and down a hallway supported with old original wood columns, is the old jail. Here desperate outlaws such as Cherokee Bill, and Rufus Buck were housed, many waiting for their date with the executioner.
Upstairs is Judge Issac C. Parker's courtroom. Also on the other end of this second floor is a museum of articles from the old Courthouse. At a price of $4.00 per person or $8.00 per family, it's well worth the price for the Fort Smith National Historic sites covers thirty acres of history. Don't forget to use your Golden Age Passport. Admission is A brief history of Fort Smith, AR. and "The Hanging Judge" Isaac C. Parker courthouse is below, with directions to this site.

To reach Fort Smith Historic site in Fort Smith, Arkansas, take the Roland,Oklahoma exit off Interstate 40. Go about six miles. After crossing the bridge over the Arkansas River, take a right turn on 3rd Street. This street weaves around and has a couple of RV parking spaces. If these are occupied proceed on to 4th Street and turn right. Follow signs to Garland Street, turn right and follow street directly into site's main entrance. There are a few long horizontal spaces for RV's and if you are pulling a vehicle just park parallel in any avaible space. We ask to make sure this was acceptable with the park service. NO problem they told us.

Fort Smith, Arkansas has many other historical places in this downtown area. So ask about other points of interest. Here is book that has some good articles about Fort Smith's story of Hell on the Border: He Hanged Eighty-Eight Men. If you decide to visit Fort Smith, the gift shop at the Historic site has a good selection of books also. Some to consider are: Miss Laura's (an old house of ill repute), The Bonneville House, Clayton House (home to one of Fort Smith's early prosecuting attorneys), The Old Fort Museum (located directly in front of Old Courthouse) and the Trolley Museum.

NOTE: Many building on Garrison Ave are original, some having been restored. Fort Smith was founded in 1817 by the U.S. Army, to contain a brewing feud between the Cherokee and Osage. Major William Bradford of the U.S. Army Rifle Regiment was sent to establish a fort on the banks of the Arkansas River at a point with a view into Indian Territory.

In later years, Fort Smith served as a major supply depot for western military post, then as headquarters for the Federal Court for Western District of Arkansas. For more than 80 years our federal government used Fort Smith to establish and maintain law in the Indian Territory. During this period of time Judge Issac C. Parker served 21 years presiding at the appointment of the President of the United States. His court was a court of no appeal. Because of Judge Parker's reputation for swift justice, he received the title of "Hanging Judge Parker." True to his nickname Judge Parker sentenced to death seventy nine men, six at one time.
The biggest part of the nearly thousand federal court employees were deputy marshals served Judge Parker's court, seeking some of the most notorious outlaws into Indian Territory. The deputies were paid $2.00 for each live outlaw returned to Fort Smith and paid nothing for a dead body. In fact, they were required to pay for burial of the deceased. They were also paid three cents per mile. Among these numbers were a wide range of men, not only whites, but blacks (including the famous Bass Reeves)" and native Americans.

Miss Laura's Social Club (For Men Only)

MISS LAURA'S BROTHEL: Miss Laura's sits between the Arkansas River and the railroad tracks. Today it serves as Tourist Center for Fort Smith. To me, this seems an appropriate use for once a notorious house of ill-repute. In 1903, Laura Zeigler, moved to Fort Smith purchasing the property for $3,000. At the time the property was a hotel. Her plans to create a social club quickly grows into, can I say", a full service operation.
Temperatures are sizzling as we pull into Miss Laura's parking lot. Several cars already fill the lot, indicating this is definitely the place to pick up literature on the local sites we want to visit. On entering the front door, each group is met by a volunteer tour guide. Ours was a sweet older lady, eager to introduce us to the establishment.

Directly to our right is the parlour, in all its authentic finery. A dapper wax male caller sits in a chair, his token in hand. According to our guide, gentlemen attending the social club gave the madam three dollars on entering. In turn she gave the visitor a token, he could use for any of the available ladies. At the end of the evening these girls turn the tokens in to the madam for their payment. It seem this elaborate system kept law enforcement from shutting down the establishment. After all, prostitution was never legal in Fort Smith. Nonetheless, there was money to made on both side of the legal system. Once a month all the girls from all the brothels were checked out by a doctor. The girls were then given a monthly clean medical certificate which had to hang over the girl's bed.

Most of the interior doors and wood work are original and the restoration has been detailed right down to very similar wallpaper of the day. Numerous original photos on the working girls and madams hang on the walls. There are also several glass showcases with beauty supplies available during that period.Upstairs are the only two original pieces of furniture from the era. A beautiful large dresser sit in the hall and in an adjacent room sits a huge wood dining table with enormous legs. The staircase, we use to reach the upstairs is also original and in wonderful condition. There are several stain glass windows, but the only original piece is located over the downstairs hall.In 1911, after purchasing the property for $3,000, Laura sold the property to one of her girls by the name of Bertha Gale Dean. The selling price was $47,000. Laura left Fort Smith and little is known of her life afterwards.
Right next door to Miss Laura's stood another brothel of some notoriety, owned by Pearl Starr. As you may know, Pearl was the daughter of the "Bandit Queen" Belle Starr

. Ladies, watch out on your way out of Miss Laura's. Its just possible you will receive a medical certificate. But remember it's only good for one month. Don't pass up, Miss Laura's. The tour is free, although donations are welcome.
Miss Laura's is located on the corner of Clayton Expressway and B Street, one block north of Garrison Avenue. NOTE: A new style trolley leaves from Miss Laura's and takes the rider on a tour through the historic district. Included are many of the homes occupied by early citizens. Fee is $1.00, for the entire trip. It's a great buy!
I think you will really enjoy your visit to the Fort Smith Historic Site.

RV parking at Miss Laura's is possible for a smaller RV, but may be tight for a larger one.
Here is the web site link for the Fort Smith Historic Site.

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